Gunpla Construction: PG W-Zero Gundam Part 6

Moving on with the torso, it’s a quick finish, just snap on the front half of the armor, and put the boxy vulcans on top and you’re done.

Unfortunately, this is where I start having fit problems, as the upper right part of the torso doesn’t fit perfectly.  It looks like the right arm inner frame is raising it up a little, but as far as I can tell the inner frame is flush and should be fine… Because of this, the upper right vulcan box doesn’t quite fit flush with the torso.  Guess you can’t win them all though.

The torso completed – 1wing45

The torso completed – 2
wing46

 

Next up we move on to the back pack, which will help support the wings as well as hide the batteries.  Another pain in the ass, due to trying to get all the wires screwed in, along with the switch, without leaving too much extra wire leeway for when you attach backpack.  Of course I just now realize that I didn’t take any pictures of the backpack though, sorry about that.  Basically you shove the wires in, screw it down, and pray it works.

Battery pack – 1wing48
Battery pack – 2
wing49
And we have light!
wing50

Before moving on to the wings I build both of the guns, which as you can see are straight forward no frill builds.  I also took the time to top coat everything built to this point (aside from the guns)

Hyper Mega Blasters? Can’t remember the name.wing47
Top coated parts
wing51

Moving on to the final part of the build, the wings.  The main wings themselves are huge, being taller than the W-Zero once you add the feathers.  The back wings as well feature a spring system that allows them to stay closed until you extend up and then the wing pops fully open.

Preparing the featherswing55
Completed wing
wing56
Preparing the back wing
wing63
Back wing fully extended
wing66

With the initial build finished last Thursday, all that was left was top coating the wings, which I finished up over Friday.   Next up, final thoughts and photos.

Last week’s  total work time: 3 hours

Overall total work time: 15 hours, 15 minutes

Bonus preview shot
 wing68

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5 thoughts on “Gunpla Construction: PG W-Zero Gundam Part 6

  1. Awesome! The topcoat gives it a nice flat finish instead of the irritating plastic gloss. Did you mask the bits that light up before topcoating or just let it go?

    Looks like I’ll be ordering mine soon! 🙂

  2. Nah, I just sprayed it all. The truth of it is, I got the head to work, but it looks like the wiring shorted out somewhere for the chest part. At this point, I’m pretty much bleh about opening it up, so it’s not a big deal.

  3. Ugh, that’s too bad. Hopefully I’ll manage to avoid that on mine, it should be here wednesday/thursday. Gonna be a busy week with that and the Red Frame so soon too..

  4. Hey man, awesome build, it looks pretty badass
    but i wanted to ask one quick question about how you built

    Ever since I would build Gunpla models, i would always have the problem of those annoying little bumps of left over plastic from the trees. Of course i try cutting it as close as i can but it always turns white and leaves an ugly little spot. (especialy on the colored torso and parts) If you know what i mean.

    Is there any way to completly remove the spots to leave it smooth and keep the original color?

    sandpaper? paint?

    thx for the help!
    (PS. Im planning to buying this model and i want it to be perfect)

  5. @Hector,

    Thanks for the comment.

    In regards to the left over marks (Sprue marks/nubs/damage however you would like to call it) I do the following method:

    Initial cutting of the piece from the gate/runner, leaving some of the nub left on the piece. I then trim down close to the piece. I then use a design knifre to cut off the remaining nub.

    You have to be careful while cutting it flush to make sure you don’t cut into the piece or gouge it.

    For inner frame parts, I am fairly lazy and simply cut the peice off the runner using the nipper flush to the piece.

    For the most part this takes care of unsightly damage, especially on white pieces. This works for the most part on black and blue pieces as well, but sometimes you still have some white damage remaining.

    Sanding is the best method, but I suck at it, and tend to grittify and screw up the surface. I also just don’t have the patience for it.

    I’ve heard using a drop of matching paint then wiping it off usually helps to cover any white after damage as well.

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